Kyoto, Japan
temples, autumn leaves, kaiseki, tea houses
Higashiyama, Kyoto
Drizzle
This is the Higashiyama hillside, south to north, on foot. You start at Fushimi Inari early enough that the first torii tunnels are still quiet, then climb as far up Mount Inari as your legs want before turning back. Coffee, a short train hop, and you are at Kiyomizu-dera by midday with its wooden stage catching good light. From there it is all downhill: yudofu at a garden table, matcha on the Sannenzaka steps, and the slow drift north into Gion as the lanterns come on. Dinner is loud and casual, which is the right ending after this much walking.
Wear shoes you would hike in. The Fushimi Inari loop climbs about 750 feet of stone steps, and Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka are uneven stone the whole way. Layers beat a heavy coat, since you will be warm climbing and cold standing still by evening. Book Okutan for a weekend lunch, and reserve the counter at Gion Tanto if you want a specific time. Fushimi Inari costs nothing and never closes. Kiyomizu-dera charges a small admission at the gate, cash is easiest.
Fushimi Inari is five minutes from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara Line to Inari Station, the shrine gate is right there. To reach Kiyomizu, take the Keihan Line north to Kiyomizu-Gojo and walk about 20 minutes uphill, or take a taxi if the day is running late. After Kiyomizu everything is walking. Sannenzaka to Gion is roughly 15 minutes downhill through Ninenzaka and Nene-no-Michi. Getting home from Gion, Gion-Shijo (Keihan) and Kawaramachi (Hankyu) are both a few minutes away.
At a shrine gate, a small bow before you pass under is normal and nobody will look at you funny. Wash hands at the water basin, ladle in your left, then your right. In Gion, the private side alleys off Hanamikoji are closed to visitors and posted with signs, so stay on the main street. If a geiko or maiko passes, step aside and let her go. She is on her way to work, not posing.
Fushimi Inari Taisha
68 Fukakusa Yabunouchicho
The head shrine of the roughly 30,000 Inari shrines across Japan, wrapped around a wooded mountain south of Kyoto and threaded with thousands of vermilion torii gates.
Vermillion Espresso Bar & Info
A small independent espresso bar just outside Fushimi Inari Taisha that doubles as an informal information stop for visitors.
Kiyomizu-dera
1-294 Kiyomizu
A hillside Buddhist temple in eastern Kyoto whose main hall projects out over the slope on a huge wooden stage, with a waterfall of three streams below it.
Okutan Kiyomizu
A traditional yudofu restaurant near Kiyomizu-dera serving set courses built around gently simmered tofu, eaten in tatami rooms looking onto a garden.
Sannenzaka tea house
Sannenzaka is a stone-stepped lane below Kiyomizu-dera lined with wooden machiya housing tea shops, sweet makers, and craft stores.
Gion evening stroll
Kyoto's best known geisha district, a grid of wooden teahouses and restaurants between Shijo street and the Kamo River.
Gion Tanto
A long-running okonomiyaki and teppanyaki restaurant in Gion, cooking savory pancakes on a hot steel counter in front of the guest.
Arashiyama, Kyoto
Cloudy
The bamboo grove is a different place before eight, so the early start is the entire point. Tenryu-ji opens right next door and its pond garden looks straight out at the Arashiyama hills, which is the view the garden was designed around 700 years ago. Coffee by the river, handmade soba upstairs with a window over the bridge, then a bus across town to Kinkaku-ji, where the gold pavilion sits on its pond and the crowd moves in one direction. You end back downtown grazing Nishiki Market until you have accidentally eaten dinner.
Nothing here needs a reservation, but Yoshimura fills up fast at noon, so arriving at 11:15 rather than 12:00 is the difference between walking in and waiting 40 minutes. Both Tenryu-ji and Kinkaku-ji charge admission at the gate, and Tenryu-ji prices the garden and the buildings separately, so say which you want. Carry cash and small coins for Nishiki, where plenty of stalls still do not take cards. Bring a bag you can hold food in, because the arcade is narrow and eating while walking is discouraged.
Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama is about 15 minutes on the JR Sagano Line, and the bamboo grove is a 10 minute walk from there. The Randen tram from Shijo-Omiya is slower and more fun. Everything in Arashiyama is walkable. Kinkaku-ji has no train station near it, so take city bus 11 or 12 from Arashiyama, about 40 minutes. From Kinkaku-ji, bus 12 or 59 brings you back downtown to Shijo, and Nishiki Market runs one block north of Shijo between Teramachi and Takakura.
Arashiyama means storm mountain, and the Togetsukyo bridge translates roughly as moon crossing bridge, named by a 13th century emperor who thought the moon looked like it was walking over it. The name has outlived several rebuilds. In Nishiki, the polite move is to buy, step aside, and finish it near the stall rather than carrying an open skewer through the crowd. Most vendors keep a small trash bin for exactly that reason, which is rarer in Japan than you would expect.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
A walking path through a dense stand of tall moso bamboo in the Sagano area of western Kyoto, running between Tenryu-ji and the Okochi Sanso villa.
Tenryu-ji garden
The head temple of its Zen branch in Arashiyama, best known for a pond garden that uses the surrounding hills as part of its composition.
% Arabica Kyoto Arashiyama
A specialty coffee shop on the Katsura River in Arashiyama, part of the Kyoto-born % Arabica chain, with a wall of glass facing the bridge and the hills.
Arashiyama Yoshimura
A soba restaurant beside the Togetsukyo bridge in Arashiyama, milling and cutting its own buckwheat noodles, with river-facing tables upstairs.
Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)
A Zen temple in northern Kyoto whose three-story pavilion, covered in gold leaf on its upper floors, stands at the edge of a reflecting pond.
Nishiki Market
A covered shopping street about a quarter mile long in central Kyoto, packed with food stalls, pickle shops, knife makers, and fishmongers.
Northern Kyoto
Cloudy
Everything today sits along the eastern foothills, connected by one two kilometer canal path, so the walking is flat and the pace is slow on purpose. Ginkaku-ji first, for the sand garden and the hillside loop that looks back over the city. Then the Philosopher's Path south, with a coffee stop in a restored machiya and a long tofu lunch at the Nanzen-ji end. The brick aqueduct behind Nanzen-ji is the photo nobody expects to like and everybody does. Eikan-do goes last because late light is when its maples are at their best. Dinner is in Pontocho, which is a two person wide alley that has been feeding people for centuries.
Book the kaiseki dinner well ahead, ideally weeks, and ask for a river-facing seat when you do. Many kaiseki houses want a card on file and charge for no-shows. Wear something you can sit on the floor in comfortably. For the day itself, a light layer for the canal walk in the shade and socks with no holes, since you will take your shoes off at both Ginkaku-ji buildings and the tofu house. Ginkaku-ji, Nanzen-ji, and Eikan-do each charge separate admission, and Eikan-do charges more during the peak maple weeks and again for the evening illumination.
From downtown, city bus 5, 17, or 32 to Ginkakuji-michi, then five minutes uphill. The Philosopher's Path starts at the temple gate and runs south along the canal, roughly 30 minutes of easy walking to Nanzen-ji. Nanzen-ji to Eikan-do is 10 minutes on foot. To get to Pontocho, walk down to Keage on the Tozai subway line and ride two stops to Sanjo Keihan, then cross the river. Or walk it in about 30 minutes, which is pleasant if you are not already late.
The canal you walk beside is not decorative. It carries water from Lake Biwa in the next prefecture, built in the 1880s to keep Kyoto alive after the capital moved to Tokyo. The aqueduct at Nanzen-ji is part of the same system and still running. In Pontocho, the wooden platforms that hang over the Kamo River, called noryo-yuka, go up from May through September only, so whether you eat over the water depends entirely on the month.
Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion)
A Zen temple at the foot of Kyoto's eastern hills, with a dark wooden pavilion, a moss garden, and a sand garden raked into a flat sea and a truncated cone.
Philosopher's Path
A pedestrian path following a canal along the eastern foothills, running roughly two kilometers from Ginkaku-ji south toward Nanzen-ji.
Blue Bottle Coffee Kyoto
A cafe from the American specialty roaster, set inside a restored Kyoto townhouse near Nanzen-ji with a garden courtyard and an open brewing counter.
Junsei
A long-standing tofu restaurant on the grounds near Nanzen-ji, serving yudofu set courses in wooden buildings around a garden.
Nanzen-ji aqueduct
A red brick Roman-style aqueduct running through the grounds of Nanzen-ji temple, carrying part of the canal that brings water from Lake Biwa into Kyoto.
Eikan-do Zenrin-ji
A Pure Land Buddhist temple at the foot of the eastern hills, built across a slope with halls linked by covered wooden walkways and surrounded by maples.
Pontocho kaiseki dinner
Pontocho is a narrow pedestrian alley running along the west bank of the Kamo River between Shijo and Sanjo, lined with restaurants, bars, and traditional teahouses.
Nara
Partly cloudy
Nara is 35 to 45 minutes from Kyoto and rewards an early train, because the deer park and Todai-ji both get busy after ten. You walk up from the station past Kofuku-ji's pagoda, through the deer park to Todai-ji and the Great Buddha, then back into the park for lunch. Afternoon is Kasuga Taisha, reached by a mossy stone path through cedar forest lined with old lanterns, which is a nicer approach than the road. Dinner is in Naramachi, the old merchant district of low wooden townhouses south of the park, before the train back.
This is a lot of walking on gravel and packed earth, so real shoes again. Keep snacks zipped inside a bag. The deer have learned that paper bags and pockets contain food and they will investigate yours, including maps and tickets. Buy deer crackers only from the licensed stands, never feed them anything else, and hold the cracker high so the bow works. Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha's inner areas both charge admission. Shizuka steams each kamameshi pot to order, so lunch takes real time, and a walk-in at 13:00 usually works on a weekday.
From Kyoto Station, the Kintetsu limited express runs to Kintetsu-Nara in about 35 minutes with a reserved seat surcharge, and drops you closest to the park. The JR Miyakoji rapid takes around 45 minutes and is covered by a JR Pass, but JR Nara Station is a longer walk in. Once you are there, nothing needs transport. Kofuku-ji to Todai-ji is about 15 minutes on foot, Todai-ji to Kasuga Taisha another 20 through the park, and Naramachi is 15 minutes back down toward the station.
The deer are not a park attraction that got out of hand. They are protected as a national natural monument and were long treated as messengers of the Kasuga gods, which is why roughly 1,200 of them still have the run of central Nara. Cracker sales fund their care. Kakinoha-zushi, the persimmon leaf sushi you eat tonight, comes from the days before refrigeration, when salted mackerel was carried inland over the mountains and the leaf did the preserving.
Kyoto Station → Nara
The rail link between Kyoto and Nara, served by two competing operators, Kintetsu and JR, running roughly parallel routes south through the Yamashiro valley.
Kofuku-ji
A Buddhist temple complex in central Nara with a five-story pagoda that dominates the skyline above Sarusawa Pond.
Todai-ji Great Buddha
A vast Buddhist temple in Nara Park whose main hall houses a bronze Buddha about 15 meters tall, seated and cast in one piece.
Nara deer park
The open parkland at the foot of Nara's eastern hills, where roughly 1,200 wild sika deer live among the temples and shrines and approach visitors for crackers.
Shizuka kamameshi
A landmark kamameshi restaurant near Nara Park, serving rice steamed to order in individual cast-iron pots with toppings arranged on top.
Kasuga Taisha
Nara's principal Shinto shrine, painted vermilion and set in a sacred forest, approached along paths lined with thousands of stone lanterns.
Hiraso Naramachi
A long-established kakinoha-zushi house in Naramachi, Nara's old merchant quarter, selling salted fish pressed onto vinegared rice and wrapped in persimmon leaves.
Central Kyoto
Cloudy
Everything today is within reach of Kyoto Station, which is the whole design. Coffee first at a roaster tucked behind a parking lot near Nishiki, then south to To-ji, where the tallest wooden pagoda in Japan stands over a pond that reflects it on a still morning. Higashi Hongan-ji on the way back is free, enormous, and usually calm, which makes it a good last thing to stand in before a train. Ramen by the station, then bags and platforms. If your train is later than 13:45, To-ji's grounds are worth a second slow lap.
Store your bags in the coin lockers at Kyoto Station first thing, or use the luggage counter in the basement when the lockers are full, which they often are by nine. Reserve your Shinkansen seat the day before if you are traveling with luggage, since unreserved cars fill and the oversized baggage spaces near the rear of the car must be booked in advance. To-ji charges admission only for the pagoda area and the halls, the outer grounds are free. If you happen to be here on the 21st of the month, the Kobo-ichi flea market fills the entire temple precinct and is worth rearranging the morning for.
Weekenders is a few minutes' walk from Shijo subway station. From there it is one stop south to Kyoto Station, then either a 15 minute walk southwest to To-ji or one stop on the Kintetsu line to Toji Station. Higashi Hongan-ji is 10 minutes north of To-ji on foot and 10 minutes from the station's north side. The ramen shop and the Shinkansen gates are both on the station's south and central sides, so the last hour needs no transport at all.
To-ji was founded in 796, right when Kyoto became the capital, and it was later handed to Kukai, the monk who brought Shingon Buddhism from China. The pagoda has burned down and been rebuilt five times, most recently in the 1640s. At Higashi Hongan-ji, look for the coiled ropes on display near the main hall. They were braided from hair donated by believers when the standard ropes kept snapping during the 1895 reconstruction.
Weekenders Coffee Tominokoji
A small specialty coffee bar in central Kyoto, tucked into a courtyard behind a parking lot near Nishiki Market, serving coffee roasted by its own roastery across town.
To-ji pagoda
A Shingon Buddhist temple just southwest of Kyoto Station, with a five-story pagoda standing over a pond in the temple garden.
Higashi Hongan-ji
The head temple of the Otani branch of Jodo Shinshu Buddhism, a short walk north of Kyoto Station, built around two vast wooden halls.
Honke Daiichi-Asahi
A long-running ramen shop next to Kyoto Station serving the local style, a dark soy-based broth piled with sliced green onion and chashu pork.
Kyoto Station, Shinkansen out
Kyoto's main rail hub, a huge steel and glass building from 1997 that handles Shinkansen, JR local lines, subway, and Kintetsu services under one roof.
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