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Shared trip· shared 9/8/2026

Kyoto in Momiji,
Season.

Kyoto, Japan

Trip price Price on request
11/19/2026 → 11/23/20262 adults
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↓ The trip
Days
5 days
Stops
32 stops
Destinations
1 destination
Travellers
2 adults
Interests

temples, autumn leaves, kaiseki, tea houses

Itinerary

5 chapters
Day 111/19/2026

Fushimi Inari to the Gion lanterns

Higashiyama, Kyoto

Forecast
11°4°

Drizzle

40%9 km/h
Pack an umbrella
An early climb through the torii tunnels, then the worn stone lanes below Kiyomizu, where the crowd thins the moment you turn off the main slope. It ends slowly under Gion's lanterns, with okonomiyaki spitting on the teppan.

The shape of the day

Two sets of famous gates and a great many stone steps in between. Fushimi Inari goes first, while the torii above the Yotsutsuji junction still run empty, and then the day drifts north into Higashiyama for Kiyomizu-dera, boiled tofu in a garden, and matcha halfway down Sannenzaka. The evening belongs to Gion, which is at its best once the shopfronts light up and the day-trippers have gone. Nothing here is far apart on the map, but the hills add up, so treat the afternoon as a slow downhill wander rather than a list to finish.

Worth sorting in advance

Wear shoes you can climb in. The Inari trail is proper stone steps and the Higashiyama lanes are polished smooth, which is unforgiving in the wet. Book Okutan if you are here at a weekend. Fushimi Inari is open around the clock and costs nothing, so the early start is free, while Kiyomizu-dera charges a modest entry fee and cash is still the easy option at temple gates. Take a small bottle of water for the climb, since the vending machines thin out above the halfway point.

Getting between the stops

Fushimi Inari is two stops from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara line and the shrine approach begins across the road from Inari station. Coming back, the Keihan line from Fushimi Inari up to Kiyomizu-Gojo, followed by a fifteen minute uphill walk, beats the 206 bus, which crawls once the afternoon traffic sets in. After that everything is on foot, and mostly downhill. Sannenzaka runs into Ninenzaka and eventually into Gion, about ten minutes of walking, with Gion-Shijo station for the ride back.

Local manners and background

Every torii on the mountain was paid for by someone, usually a business, with the donor's name and the date lacquered onto the back of the posts, so the walk up reads as one long list of thank-yous. The foxes are Inari's messengers, not gods. In Gion, the narrow private lanes off Hanamikoji are closed to visitors and photography there carries a fine, so stay on the main street. If a geiko or maiko passes, she is on her way to work, so give her the pavement and keep your camera down.

  1. 01

    Fushimi Inari Taisha

    68 Fukakusa Yabunouchicho

    08:30 · 120m
    Be at the gates before nine. Most people turn back at the Yotsutsuji viewpoint, about half an hour up, and the trail beyond it empties out almost completely. The full loop to the summit takes two hours at a steady pace. Free, open day and night, and the steps are real steps.
    About this place

    The head shrine of Inari, the deity of rice, sake and business, on a wooded hillside in southern Kyoto. Thousands of vermilion torii line the paths that climb Mount Inari behind it.

    History
    Tradition dates the shrine's founding to the early eighth century, when the Hata clan held this part of the Kyoto basin. The main buildings were rebuilt in the fifteenth century after the Onin War, and the tunnels of gates grew gradually as merchants donated them.
    Why it's famous
    The senbon torii, the dense corridors of gates behind the main hall, are one of the most recognisable sights in Japan and the reason most people come.
    Did you know
    Every gate is a donation, and the donor's name and the date are written on the back of the posts, so walking down the mountain means reading them all in reverse.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  2. 🚶walk· 8 min· 600 m↗ Directions
  3. 02

    Vermillion Espresso Bar & Info

    10:45 · 30m
    A two minute walk from the shrine approach and a good place to sit down after the climb. Espresso and flat whites, a handful of seats, and it fills up once the coach parties arrive mid morning. Come straight off the mountain rather than after lunch.
    About this place

    A small independent espresso bar near the foot of Fushimi Inari, run in the Australian and New Zealand cafe style that took hold in Kyoto over the past decade.

    History
    Kyoto's specialty coffee scene expanded through the 2010s, with small owner-run bars opening near the major shrines and temples where there had previously been only vending machines and souvenir shops.
    Why it's famous
    It is the reliable coffee stop for the Fushimi Inari climb, which otherwise has very little beyond the shrine's own tea stalls.
    Did you know
    The vermilion used on shrine gates is a pigment called shu, historically made from mercury sulphide, which also happens to preserve the timber underneath.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  4. 🚗drive· 15 min· 4.7 km↗ Directions
  5. 03

    Kiyomizu-dera

    1-294 Kiyomizu

    12:00 · 90m
    The wooden stage photographs best in late morning light, from the path on the far side of the valley rather than from the stage itself. Carry on down to the Otowa waterfall and pick one of the three streams, since drinking from all three is considered greedy. Ninety minutes covers it.
    About this place

    A Buddhist temple on the Higashiyama hillside, best known for a vast wooden veranda that projects out over the slope on a lattice of pillars.

    History
    Founded in the late eighth century around a spring on the hillside, the temple burned repeatedly over the centuries. The buildings you see today, including the stage, date from a rebuilding in the 1630s under the third Tokugawa shogun.
    Why it's famous
    The stage, built without nails, and the view back over the city from it. The temple is part of the UNESCO listing for the historic monuments of ancient Kyoto.
    Did you know
    There is a Japanese expression about jumping from the Kiyomizu stage, meaning to take the plunge. During the Edo period people actually did it, and temple records logged more than two hundred jumps, most of which the jumper survived.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  6. 🚶walk· 6 min· 400 m↗ Directions
  7. 04

    Okutan Kiyomizu

    13:45 · 75m
    Yudofu, a set course built around simmered tofu, eaten on tatami looking out at moss and maples. Book ahead at weekends and ask for a room over the garden. It is a slow, quiet, deliberately plain meal, so do not come starving after the Inari climb.
    About this place

    A garden restaurant below Kiyomizu-dera serving yudofu, the Kyoto set meal of tofu simmered in a pot of hot water with sides of sesame, vegetables and pickles.

    History
    The Okutan name goes back to a tofu house that fed pilgrims near Nanzen-ji in the Edo period. The dish itself comes out of shojin ryori, the meat-free cooking of Buddhist temple kitchens.
    Why it's famous
    Yudofu is the classic Kyoto temple-side meal, and Okutan is one of the names most associated with it.
    Did you know
    Kyoto's soft groundwater is the reason its tofu has a reputation at all. Low mineral content gives a smoother, sweeter curd, which is also why the city's sake brewers settled in Fushimi.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  8. 🚶walk· 4 min· 200 m↗ Directions
  9. 05

    Sannenzaka tea house

    15:15 · 45m
    Matcha and warabimochi partway down the slope, forty five minutes well spent when your legs have had enough. Take the upstairs seats if they are free, since the window looks straight down the stone steps. Expect to queue at the popular ones in the middle of the afternoon.
    About this place

    A tea house on Sannenzaka, the stepped stone lane of wooden shopfronts that runs down from Kiyomizu-dera towards Gion.

    History
    The lane developed as the pilgrim approach to Kiyomizu-dera and is now a protected preservation district, which is why the buildings are timber and the power lines are buried.
    Why it's famous
    Sannenzaka and its neighbour Ninenzaka are the most photographed streets in Kyoto, particularly at opening time before the shops fill.
    Did you know
    The name means three-year slope, and local superstition holds that a fall on these steps brings three years of bad luck, which is a decent argument for sensible shoes.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  10. 🚶walk· 18 min· 1.3 km↗ Directions
  11. 06

    Gion evening stroll

    18:00 · 75m
    Walk Hanamikoji after dark when the lanterns are lit. The narrow private alleys off it are closed to visitors and photography there is fined, so stay on the main street. Geiko and maiko pass through around six on their way to appointments, so give them room and keep the camera down.
    About this place

    Kyoto's best known geisha district, a grid of wooden machiya teahouses and restaurants between Shijo street and the Kamo River.

    History
    Gion grew up in the seventeenth century as a service quarter for pilgrims heading to Yasaka Shrine, and gradually turned into the licensed entertainment district where the geiko tradition took root.
    Why it's famous
    It is the place people picture when they think of Kyoto, and one of the few districts where geiko and their apprentice maiko still work.
    Did you know
    Kyoto has five hanamachi, or geisha districts, still operating, and the women are called geiko here rather than geisha, which is the Tokyo word.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  12. 🚶walk· 3 min· 200 m↗ Directions
  13. 07

    Gion Tanto

    19:30 · 90m
    Okonomiyaki cooked on the teppan counter in front of you, unfussy and busy. The negiyaki, packed with spring onion instead of cabbage, is the one to order. Sit at the counter rather than a table, and book if you want the counter on a Friday or Saturday.
    About this place

    A long-standing okonomiyaki restaurant in Gion, cooking on a hot steel counter in the Kansai style.

    History
    Okonomiyaki as it is eaten now took shape in Osaka and Kobe after the war, when flour was cheap and cabbage was plentiful, and it spread through Kansai as everyday food rather than restaurant cooking.
    Why it's famous
    It is the sort of old counter place that has survived in a district where most of the neighbours are expensive kaiseki restaurants.
    Did you know
    Negiyaki was invented in Osaka as an okonomiyaki without the cabbage, using a whole heap of spring onions instead, and it is usually eaten with soy sauce rather than the sweet brown okonomiyaki sauce.
    ↗ Open in Maps
Day 211/20/2026

Arashiyama at dawn, Kinkaku-ji by afternoon

Arashiyama, Kyoto

Forecast
12°-1°

Cloudy

20%11 km/h
You get the bamboo path almost to yourself at first light, then a pond garden that has framed the same hills since the 1300s. The afternoon turns gold at Kinkaku-ji and dinner happens in small bites along Nishiki.

The shape of the day

Arashiyama early, the city later. The bamboo path takes about twenty minutes to walk and is a completely different place before eight, and Tenryu-ji sits right against it, so the two belong together. Coffee by the Togetsukyo bridge and handmade soba fill the late morning. Kinkaku-ji is the one fixed appointment of the afternoon, quick to see and busy at any hour, and Nishiki Market takes care of the evening as a series of skewers and small paper cups rather than a sit-down meal.

Worth sorting in advance

Mornings by the river run colder than the city centre, so bring a layer you can shed by lunchtime. Tenryu-ji prices the garden and the temple buildings separately, and the garden alone is the cheaper, better ticket if you are short on time. Yoshimura fills up from about half eleven, so arriving early is worth more than any booking. Kinkaku-ji sells a single ticket for everyone and hands it over printed as a paper charm, which is the only souvenir you need from there.

Getting between the stops

The JR Sagano line runs from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama in roughly fifteen minutes and is the plain, cheap way west. The Randen tram from Shijo-Omiya is slower and much nicer to look at. Within Arashiyama you walk everywhere. Kinkaku-ji has no station of its own, so take the JR back east to Enmachi and pick up a short bus, or split a taxi if there are two of you and the queue at the bus stop looks grim. From Kinkaku-ji, a bus down to Shijo takes around forty minutes and drops you a street from Nishiki.

Local manners and background

The grove is a working stand of moso bamboo, tended and cut, which is why the carved initials people leave in the stems cause such offence. Nishiki has spent years asking visitors to stop eating while walking, and most stalls now keep a spot beside the counter where you can stand and finish what you have bought. Kinkaku-ji is a functioning Zen temple rather than a monument, so the loop is one way and the pace is set by everyone else on the path.

  1. 01

    Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

    07:45 · 60m
    Get there before eight and you will have long stretches of the path to yourself. The walk itself takes twenty minutes end to end, so the early start buys quiet, not time. Come in from the Nonomiya shrine side. By ten the corridor is shoulder to shoulder.
    About this place

    A walking path through a dense stand of moso bamboo in Sagano, on the western edge of Kyoto, between Tenryu-ji and the Okochi Sanso villa.

    History
    Sagano has been an aristocratic retreat since the Heian period, when Kyoto nobles built villas out here. The bamboo has been cultivated and harvested for centuries for baskets, screens and building work.
    Why it's famous
    The scale of it. The stems close overhead and the light goes green, which is why it appears in more Kyoto photographs than almost anywhere else.
    Did you know
    Japan's environment ministry put the sound of the Sagano grove in the wind on its list of one hundred soundscapes worth preserving, so the rustling is officially protected.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  2. 🚶walk· 5 min· 400 m↗ Directions
  3. 02

    Tenryu-ji garden

    09:00 · 75m
    Go in by the north gate beside the grove so you are not walking the same ground twice. The garden and the temple buildings are ticketed separately, and if you are choosing one, choose the garden. Seventy five minutes is enough unless you sit down by the pond, which you should.
    About this place

    The head temple of the Tenryu branch of Rinzai Zen, in Arashiyama, with a pond garden laid out to borrow the mountains behind it as part of the view.

    History
    Founded in 1339 by the shogun Ashikaga Takauji, on the advice of the priest Muso Soseki, to pray for the soul of the emperor Go-Daigo, whom he had deposed. Muso Soseki designed the Sogenchi garden himself.
    Why it's famous
    The garden survives essentially as it was designed in the fourteenth century, which almost nothing else in Kyoto does, and the temple is on the UNESCO list.
    Did you know
    Sogenchi was the first garden in Japan to be designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty, back in the 1920s.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  4. 🚶walk· 9 min· 700 m↗ Directions
  5. 03

    % Arabica Kyoto Arashiyama

    10:30 · 30m
    The riverside branch, with a terrace facing the Togetsukyo bridge. Order the iced latte and take it outside. The queue looks alarming and moves faster than you expect, roughly ten minutes at mid morning. Mostly standing room, so this is a stop rather than a sit.
    About this place

    The Arashiyama branch of % Arabica, a Kyoto coffee company with a minimal white counter and a wall of glass facing the Katsura River.

    History
    The company started in Kyoto in the mid 2010s with a small shop in Higashiyama, then grew quickly into Hong Kong, Dubai and beyond, which is unusual for a Japanese coffee brand.
    Why it's famous
    The percentage-sign logo and the view of the bridge have made this one of the most photographed cafes in Japan.
    Did you know
    The founder owns a coffee farm in Hawaii, so some of what goes through the grinder here comes from land the company works itself.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  6. 🚶walk· 2 min· 200 m↗ Directions
  7. 04

    Arashiyama Yoshimura

    11:15 · 75m
    Handmade soba with a picture window over the river and the bridge. Ask for a second floor table when you arrive and add the tempura set. It gets busy from about half eleven, so early beats clever. Soba is served hot or cold, and cold shows the noodle better.
    About this place

    A soba restaurant beside the Katsura River in Arashiyama, milling and cutting its own buckwheat noodles, with river views from the upper floor.

    History
    Soba came to Kyoto's temple and teahouse culture as a light, quick meal, and Arashiyama's restaurants grew around the visitors who have been coming out here to view blossom and autumn colour since the Heian court.
    Why it's famous
    The combination of proper handmade soba and a window straight onto the Togetsukyo bridge, which is a rarer pairing than it sounds.
    Did you know
    Most Japanese soba is a blend, usually eight parts buckwheat to two parts wheat flour, because pure buckwheat has no gluten and falls apart in the pot.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  8. 🚗drive· 20 min· 7.8 km↗ Directions
  9. 05

    Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)

    13:30 · 60m
    The reflection works best from the near shore of the pond, first thing or late afternoon. The route through the grounds is one way, so walk the loop clockwise and leave past the tea house. An hour is plenty, and there is no way to linger by the pavilion itself.
    About this place

    A Zen temple in north west Kyoto whose three-storey pavilion, covered in gold leaf, stands at the edge of a large pond. Its formal name is Rokuon-ji.

    History
    Built in 1397 as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and turned into a Zen temple after his death in 1408, as he had instructed.
    Why it's famous
    It is the single most recognisable building in Kyoto, and each of its three floors is built in a different architectural style, from aristocratic to samurai to Zen.
    Did you know
    The pavilion you are looking at is not the original. A young monk burned it down in 1950, and the rebuilding was completed in 1955, with the gold leaf renewed and thickened in the 1980s.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  10. 🚗drive· 23 min· 6.6 km↗ Directions
  11. 06

    Nishiki Market

    16:30 · 90m
    Eat your way along rather than sitting down. Tako-tamago skewers, soy milk doughnuts, tamagoyaki and pickles are the ones to get. Shops start shutting around five, so come before then, and eat what you buy beside the stall rather than walking with it.
    About this place

    A covered market street five blocks long, one shop deep, running parallel to Shijo in central Kyoto and known as Kyoto's kitchen.

    History
    There has been fish selling on this street for around four hundred years, helped by cold groundwater that let merchants keep the catch before refrigeration existed. It gradually broadened into pickles, tofu, knives and prepared food.
    Why it's famous
    It is where Kyoto restaurants have bought their ingredients for generations, and where visitors now come to graze.
    Did you know
    One of the shops on the street is a knife maker that began as a swordsmith in the sixteenth century and switched to kitchen blades when the demand for swords dried up.
    ↗ Open in Maps
Day 311/21/2026

Ginkaku-ji, the canal walk and Eikan-do

Northern Kyoto

Forecast
15°3°

Cloudy

20%13 km/h
Raked sand, a canal path lined with old trees, and the reddest maples in the city, with a Victorian brick aqueduct standing in the middle of a Zen temple as the day's oddity. Dinner is a long one above the Kamo.

The shape of the day

This is the walking day, and the best of it is the two kilometres of canal between Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji. Start with the sand cone and the moss garden while the light is still low, take the Philosopher's Path slowly, and let coffee and a long tofu lunch pull the middle of the day apart. Nanzen-ji has the aqueduct and the huge Sanmon gate. Eikan-do is saved for last on purpose, because late afternoon is when its maples do the thing everyone comes for.

Worth sorting in advance

Eikan-do runs an evening illumination during the autumn colour and charges a separate ticket for it, with a queue to match, so decide in advance whether you want the daylight version or the floodlit one rather than trying to do both. Junsei and the Pontocho restaurants both want booking, the second one firmly. Each temple takes its own entry fee, so keep coins handy. The canal path has almost nowhere to buy water once you leave Ginkaku-ji.

Getting between the stops

Ginkaku-ji is a bus job from the centre, the 5 or the 17 up to Ginkaku-ji-michi, then five minutes uphill past the souvenir stalls. Everything after that is on foot and almost flat: the path, Nanzen-ji, then Eikan-do, which is a five minute walk north of the Nanzen-ji gate. For dinner, walk or take a short taxi down to Sanjo, and Pontocho itself is a single lane between Sanjo and Shijo that you can only do on foot. Keihan Sanjo or Gion-Shijo gets you home afterwards.

Local manners and background

The Philosopher's Path is named after Nishida Kitaro, the Kyoto University philosopher who walked it to think, and it is lined mainly with cherry trees, so the autumn colour along the canal is patchier than the guidebooks imply. Eikan-do is where to spend that appetite instead. The aqueduct at Nanzen-ji is not a folly. It was built in the 1880s to carry water from Lake Biwa into Kyoto and it still does the job, which is why the channel on top is running.

  1. 01

    Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion)

    08:45 · 75m
    Come at opening, when the raked sand still has its edges. The route climbs behind the temple through moss to a viewpoint back over the rooftops, which most people skip. Seventy five minutes including the hill. Smaller and plainer than Kinkaku-ji, and better for it.
    About this place

    A Zen temple at the foot of the eastern hills, properly called Jisho-ji, with a two-storey wooden pavilion, a moss garden and a garden of raked white sand.

    History
    Built in 1482 as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, modelled on his grandfather's Golden Pavilion, and converted into a temple after he died in 1490.
    Why it's famous
    The sand garden, with its long raked sea and a truncated cone said to be for moon viewing, and the plainer aesthetic that came to define Japanese taste.
    Did you know
    Despite the name, the Silver Pavilion was never silvered. A small room in the neighbouring hall is the oldest surviving example of the four and a half mat layout that became the standard tea room.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  2. 🚶walk· 7 min· 500 m↗ Directions
  3. 02

    Philosopher's Path

    10:15 · 60m
    Two kilometres of canal path, about forty minutes at a stroll, from Ginkaku-ji south towards Nanzen-ji. The trees here are mainly cherry, so autumn colour is patchier than you might expect and the real reds come later at Eikan-do. Cafes and craft shops line the side lanes.
    About this place

    A stone path along a narrow canal in the eastern hills, running roughly two kilometres between Ginkaku-ji and the Nanzen-ji area.

    History
    The canal itself is part of the Lake Biwa waterway, an engineering project of the 1880s that brought water over the mountains into Kyoto. The trees along it were donated by a Japanese painter in the 1920s.
    Why it's famous
    It is the classic Kyoto walk, at its most photographed in cherry blossom season when the branches close over the water.
    Did you know
    The name comes from Nishida Kitaro, the philosopher who walked this route to Kyoto University every day and thought while he did it.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  4. 🚗drive· 8 min· 2.4 km↗ Directions
  5. 03

    Blue Bottle Coffee Kyoto

    11:40 · 30m
    A restored townhouse a few minutes from Nanzen-ji, with a courtyard that is the quiet corner when the front room fills. Order a pour-over rather than milk and sugar. Half an hour is right, and it is the only serious coffee on this stretch of the walk.
    About this place

    A branch of the American roaster Blue Bottle, in a converted machiya, the traditional Kyoto wooden townhouse, near Nanzen-ji.

    History
    The building is a century-old machiya, restored rather than replaced, keeping the long narrow plan and the courtyard that these houses were built around. Blue Bottle itself started in Oakland in the early 2000s.
    Why it's famous
    It is the best-known example of the wave of specialty coffee shops that moved into Kyoto's old townhouses instead of knocking them down.
    Did you know
    The company is named after The Blue Bottle, the coffee house that opened in Vienna in the seventeenth century, supposedly using beans left behind by a retreating Ottoman army.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  6. 🚶walk· 7 min· 500 m↗ Directions
  7. 04

    Junsei

    12:20 · 75m
    The garden-view yudofu set is the reason to come, and the meal deliberately takes its time. Book ahead, particularly at lunch in autumn. Ask to sit in the old building rather than the newer dining room. Allow the full seventy five minutes and do not plan anything tight afterwards.
    About this place

    A yudofu restaurant in the grounds beside Nanzen-ji, serving simmered tofu courses in wooden buildings set in a garden.

    History
    The main building on the site went up in 1839, built as a school by a local physician, and was later moved and reused by the restaurant. Nanzen-ji's tofu houses grew up to feed visitors to the temple.
    Why it's famous
    Nanzen-ji is the home of Kyoto yudofu, and Junsei is the name most often given when someone asks where to eat it.
    Did you know
    The building is registered as a tangible cultural property, so you are eating lunch inside a listed nineteenth-century schoolhouse.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  8. 🚶walk· 3 min· 200 m↗ Directions
  9. 05

    Nanzen-ji aqueduct

    13:50 · 60m
    The brick aqueduct is the surprise here, and the arch nearest the path is the photograph everyone takes. Climb the Sanmon gate for the view over the grounds, which costs a small extra fee and involves a steep wooden staircase. The grounds themselves are free to walk.
    About this place

    A large Zen temple complex at the foot of the eastern hills, with a huge two-storey gate and a red brick Meiji-era aqueduct running straight through the grounds.

    History
    The temple began as a retired emperor's villa in the thirteenth century and became one of the most senior Zen temples in Japan. The aqueduct, called Suirokaku, was built in the 1880s as part of the Lake Biwa canal scheme.
    Why it's famous
    The collision of a fourteenth-century Zen complex with Victorian-era brick engineering, which nobody expects and which has become the temple's signature.
    Did you know
    The engineer behind the canal was in his twenties when the project began, and water still runs along the channel on top of the aqueduct today.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  10. 🚶walk· 8 min· 600 m↗ Directions
  11. 06

    Eikan-do Zenrin-ji

    15:05 · 70m
    The best maples in the city, at their reddest in the second half of November. Late afternoon light through the trees is worth planning for. The evening illumination is a separate ticket with a long queue, so pick one or the other. Allow seventy minutes, more if you climb to the hillside hall.
    About this place

    A Buddhist temple in the eastern hills, formally Zenrin-ji, built up a wooded slope with halls linked by covered wooden walkways.

    History
    Founded in the ninth century as a private temple, it later took the popular name Eikan-do after Yokan, an eleventh-century priest who ran a clinic for the poor here.
    Why it's famous
    Its maples. Kyoto has called it the Eikan-do of autumn leaves since at least the medieval period, and it is the busiest colour spot in the city each November.
    Did you know
    Its main image is an Amida Buddha with its head turned to look back over its shoulder, an unusual pose said to date from the moment Yokan fell behind while walking in prayer.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  12. 🚗drive· 14 min· 3.7 km↗ Directions
  13. 07

    Pontocho kaiseki dinner

    19:00 · 120m
    A multi-course dinner on a lane one building deep, with the Kamo River behind it. Book well ahead and ask for a window or a terrace table. Let the chef set the pace, tell them in advance about anything you cannot eat, and expect two hours at the table.
    About this place

    Pontocho is a narrow pedestrian lane running between Shijo and Sanjo, packed with restaurants, many of them serving kaiseki, the Kyoto multi-course meal built around the season.

    History
    The lane was laid out in the seventeenth century on land reclaimed along the Kamo River, and became one of Kyoto's entertainment quarters. It is still one of the five hanamachi.
    Why it's famous
    Lantern light, wooden facades and the river terraces that restaurants build out over the bank in the warmer months.
    Did you know
    Those terraces, called yuka, are put up and taken down every year to a set season, and the practice of eating out over the Kamo to escape the summer heat goes back centuries.
    ↗ Open in Maps
Day 411/22/2026

Nara, the deer and the Great Buddha

Nara

Forecast
15°6°

Partly cloudy

10%6 km/h
A quick run south to a city where the deer have the run of the park and a fifteen metre bronze Buddha sits under one of the largest wooden roofs anywhere. Lanterns in the forest and pressed sushi see out the day.

The shape of the day

Nara is compact in a way Kyoto is not. Almost everything worth seeing sits inside one park you can cross on foot, and the deer wander through all of it. Kofuku-ji first, since it is closest to the station, then Todai-ji for the Great Buddha, lunch once the middle of the day has thinned out, and the climb up through the woods to Kasuga Taisha in the afternoon. Naramachi, the old merchant quarter, is where the day winds down before the train back.

Worth sorting in advance

Keep food in a zipped bag. The deer are wild animals, they are quick, and they will go through a paper carrier without hesitation. Buy the shika-senbei crackers only from the licensed sellers, hold them low, and hand them over fast. Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha each charge separately and the inner areas cost more than the grounds. If you plan on the Kintetsu limited express, the reserved seat is an extra charge on top of the ordinary fare, bought at the same window.

Getting between the stops

Two lines run from Kyoto. The Kintetsu limited express takes about thirty five minutes and drops you at Kintetsu Nara, a five minute walk from the park. The JR rapid takes a little longer, is covered by a JR Pass, and leaves you at JR Nara, about fifteen minutes further out. Inside Nara you walk: Kofuku-ji to Todai-ji is fifteen minutes, Todai-ji to Kasuga Taisha another twenty through the deer park, and Naramachi is south of the station, a flat ten minutes from either.

Local manners and background

The deer are protected as a national natural monument and have been treated as messengers of the Kasuga gods for well over a thousand years, which is why they behave as though the park is theirs. The bowing is learned, not sacred: they worked out that it gets them fed. Nara was the capital before Kyoto was, for most of the eighth century, and the scale of Todai-ji is what an imperial capital's temple budget looked like. Bring cash, since the smaller places in Naramachi still prefer it.

  1. 01

    Kyoto Station → Nara

    08:00 · 45m
    The Kintetsu limited express takes about thirty five minutes and stops closer to the park, but the reserved seat costs extra on top of the fare. The JR rapid is included in a JR Pass and leaves you a longer walk out. Buy at the machines, not the counter, and go before nine to dodge commuters.
    About this place

    The morning rail run from Kyoto Station down to Nara, served by two competing operators with different stations at the far end.

    History
    The JR route grew out of Meiji-era private railways that were later nationalised. The Kintetsu line was built in the late 1920s by an electric railway company set up specifically to link the two old capitals.
    Why it's famous
    It is the standard Kyoto day trip, short enough that Nara works as a morning departure and an evening return.
    Did you know
    Kintetsu runs the largest private railway network in Japan by route length, bigger than any of the Tokyo operators.
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  2. 🚗drive· 50 min· 43.7 km↗ Directions
  3. 02

    Kofuku-ji

    09:15 · 45m
    A ten minute walk up from Kintetsu Nara, and the natural first stop. Sarusawa Pond just below gives the reflection shot. The five-storey pagoda has been under long-term restoration, so check before you build the visit around it. Forty five minutes covers the grounds and the treasure hall.
    About this place

    A Buddhist temple on the hill above Sarusawa Pond in central Nara, with a five-storey pagoda, an octagonal hall and a museum of early Buddhist sculpture.

    History
    Founded in the seventh century near Kyoto and moved to Nara in 710 when the capital did, as the family temple of the Fujiwara clan. Burned and rebuilt many times, the pagoda most recently in the fifteenth century.
    Why it's famous
    The pagoda is the tallest in Japan after To-ji's, and the temple museum holds some of the finest surviving eighth-century sculpture in the country.
    Did you know
    Its collection includes the three-faced, six-armed Ashura statue, made of dry lacquer in the eighth century, which is one of the most loved objects in Japan and tours the country to enormous queues.
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  4. 🚶walk· 19 min· 1.4 km↗ Directions
  5. 03

    Todai-ji Great Buddha

    10:15 · 90m
    Give it ninety minutes, including the walk in through the Nandaimon gate and its two guardian figures. Inside the hall, one pillar has a hole cut through the base said to match the Buddha's nostril, and squeezing through is meant to bring luck. Children manage it easily, adults less so.
    About this place

    A vast Buddhist temple in Nara whose main hall houses a fifteen metre seated bronze Buddha, the Daibutsu.

    History
    Commissioned by Emperor Shomu in the eighth century as the head of a national temple network, at a cost that nearly emptied the treasury. The statue was cast in 752, and the hall has burned and been rebuilt twice since.
    Why it's famous
    The Great Buddha Hall is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world, and the bronze inside it is one of the largest ever cast.
    Did you know
    The present hall is about two thirds the width of the original, because by the time of the eighteenth-century rebuild, timber that size could no longer be found.
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  6. 🚶walk· 9 min· 700 m↗ Directions
  7. 04

    Nara deer park

    12:00 · 45m
    Buy shika-senbei only from the licensed sellers, hold the crackers low and hand them over quickly, since the deer get pushy once they see a stack. Keep every other snack zipped away, including paper bags and maps. Forty five minutes of wandering is plenty.
    About this place

    A large public park in central Nara, wooded and open, with around a thousand wild sika deer moving freely between the temples and shrines inside it.

    History
    The deer have been protected here for more than a thousand years, treated as messengers of the gods of Kasuga Taisha. Killing one was a capital offence until the nineteenth century.
    Why it's famous
    It is the only place in Japan where wild deer wander a city centre and will approach people for food.
    Did you know
    The bowing is learned behaviour, not tradition. The deer worked out that a nod gets a cracker, and the crackers themselves are made only from rice bran and flour, with the profits going to a deer protection fund.
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  8. 🚶walk· 15 min· 1.1 km↗ Directions
  9. 05

    Shizuka kamameshi

    13:00 · 75m
    Kamameshi is steamed to order in its own iron pot, so allow twenty minutes before anything arrives. The seven-topping pot is the one to get. Scrape the crust off the bottom of the pot, which is the best part. Book at weekends, and expect the whole meal to take an hour or more.
    About this place

    A long-established kamameshi restaurant in Nara, serving rice steamed to order in small cast iron pots with toppings laid over the top.

    History
    Kamameshi in this individual-pot form spread through Japan in the twentieth century, often sold at railway stations, and restaurants near the big temples adopted it as a sit-down meal.
    Why it's famous
    It is the Nara lunch most often recommended between Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha, and one of the few places doing kamameshi properly rather than as a set menu afterthought.
    Did you know
    The crisp layer of scorched rice at the bottom of the pot has its own name, okoge, and in most kamameshi places it is considered the point of the dish rather than a mistake.
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  10. 🚶walk· 23 min· 1.7 km↗ Directions
  11. 06

    Kasuga Taisha

    14:30 · 75m
    Walk up through the forest on the stone lantern path rather than taking the road, which is the whole atmosphere of the place. The inner shrine charges a small fee and has the corridor of bronze lanterns. Allow seventy five minutes including the climb, and go before four when the light fades under the trees.
    About this place

    A vermilion Shinto shrine at the foot of a sacred forested hill in Nara, approached through a long avenue of moss-covered stone lanterns.

    History
    Established in 768 as the shrine of the Fujiwara clan, whose gods were said to have arrived in Nara on a white deer. The buildings were traditionally rebuilt to identical specification every twenty years.
    Why it's famous
    The lanterns. There are around three thousand of them, stone along the approaches and bronze hung along the corridors of the shrine itself, all of them donated.
    Did you know
    They are only lit twice a year, in February and in mid August, when the whole shrine is lit by lantern flame and nothing else.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  12. 🚗drive· 8 min· 2.4 km↗ Directions
  13. 07

    Hiraso Naramachi

    17:00 · 75m
    Kakinoha-zushi is mackerel or salmon pressed onto vinegared rice and wrapped in a persimmon leaf. Eat upstairs in the dining room, or buy a boxed set for the train and keep it for later, since it travels well. Do not eat the leaf. Seventy five minutes if you sit down, ten if you do not.
    About this place

    A kakinoha-zushi shop and restaurant in Naramachi, the old merchant quarter of low wooden houses south of the main temples.

    History
    The shop has been in Naramachi for well over a century. The sushi itself is a mountain food, developed to get salted fish inland from the coast before refrigeration, using persimmon leaves as the wrapping.
    Why it's famous
    Kakinoha-zushi is the food most associated with Nara and the surrounding Yoshino region, and Hiraso is one of the names that made it known outside the prefecture.
    Did you know
    The persimmon leaf is not decorative. It contains tannins with antibacterial properties, which is what let the sushi survive the journey over the mountains.
    ↗ Open in Maps
Day 511/23/2026

To-ji pagoda, ramen and the train home

Central Kyoto

Forecast
16°3°

Cloudy

20%7 km/h
One unhurried last morning: coffee at a standing counter, Japan's tallest wooden pagoda over its pond, and a bowl of proper Kyoto ramen before the Shinkansen.

The shape of the day

A short, deliberately loose morning built around the station. Coffee first, at a roaster the size of a garden shed, then To-ji, which is ten minutes from Kyoto Station and quiet at opening in a way it never is later. Higashi Hongan-ji fills the gap before lunch without asking anything of you, and the ramen shop by the station is the last real meal. Everything is close enough that a slow start costs you nothing.

Worth sorting in advance

Check your Shinkansen seat the night before, because the platforms at Kyoto get busy and the ticket machines have a queue at midday. If you are travelling on a JR Pass, the Nozomi is not included in the ordinary pass unless you pay the supplement, so the Hikari is the straightforward choice. Leave a bag with the station lockers or the hotel and travel the morning light. To-ji charges for the pagoda grounds and the halls, and the pagoda interior only opens on certain dates.

Getting between the stops

Weekenders is in the centre, north of Shijo, and reaching it means the Karasuma subway to Shijo and a short walk into a car park courtyard. From there the subway back to Kyoto Station takes four minutes. To-ji is a fifteen minute walk south west of the station, or one stop on the Kintetsu line to Toji station. Higashi Hongan-ji is straight up Karasuma from the station, ten minutes on foot, and the ramen shop is on the east side of the station block, so the last leg is a five minute walk to the barrier.

Local manners and background

To-ji holds a big flea market on the twenty first of every month, in memory of Kobo Daishi, and if your last day lands on it, the temple grounds fill with antiques, old kimono and food stalls from early morning. Higashi Hongan-ji is worth stepping inside for the ropes on display, plaited from human hair donated by female believers when the ropes of the time kept snapping under the weight of the timber. Kyoto ramen is darker and heavier than the city's reputation suggests, and that contradiction is the point.

  1. 01

    Weekenders Coffee Tominokoji

    08:15 · 45m
    A tiny standing-room roaster reached across a car park courtyard, easy to walk straight past. Order the single-origin pour-over and drink it at the counter with everyone on their way to work. There are no seats, so this is fifteen minutes rather than forty five, unless you want a second.
    About this place

    A small specialty coffee roaster in central Kyoto, in a converted wooden building behind a car park a short walk from Nishiki Market.

    History
    Weekenders began as a roastery on the edge of the city in the mid 2000s and later opened this counter in the centre, keeping the old building rather than fitting out a shopfront.
    Why it's famous
    It is the roaster Kyoto's coffee people name first, and the location behind a car park has become part of its reputation.
    Did you know
    Kyoto drinks more coffee per household than almost any other city in Japan, a habit built on its old kissaten cafe culture rather than the recent specialty wave.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  2. 🚗drive· 16 min· 4.6 km↗ Directions
  3. 02

    To-ji pagoda

    09:30 · 60m
    Arrive at opening for the pagoda over the pond before the light hardens. The grounds and the halls are ticketed, and the pagoda interior only opens on set dates through the year. An hour is enough. If you are here on the twenty first, the flea market takes over the whole site.
    About this place

    A temple south of Kyoto Station whose five-storey pagoda, at about 55 metres, is the tallest wooden pagoda in Japan.

    History
    Founded in 796, shortly after the capital moved to Kyoto, and handed to the monk Kukai in 823 as a centre for Shingon Buddhism. The pagoda has burned down four times, mostly from lightning, and the current one dates from the 1640s.
    Why it's famous
    The pagoda is the first thing you see from a Shinkansen window pulling into Kyoto, and it is the city's unofficial landmark.
    Did you know
    On the twenty first of every month the grounds fill with a flea market called Kobo-san, held in memory of Kukai, selling antiques, old kimono and food from early morning.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  4. 🚗drive· 12 min· 3.4 km↗ Directions
  5. 03

    Higashi Hongan-ji

    10:50 · 40m
    Ten minutes up Karasuma from Kyoto Station, free to enter, and calm in a way the famous temples are not. The Goeido hall is the main event and takes fifteen minutes. Look for the coiled hair ropes on display in the corridor. Forty minutes is right before you head for lunch.
    About this place

    The head temple of the Otani branch of Jodo Shinshu Buddhism, a short walk north of Kyoto Station, with two enormous wooden halls.

    History
    Founded in 1602 when Tokugawa Ieyasu granted land to one faction of a divided sect, deliberately splitting it into eastern and western temples. Fire destroyed the buildings repeatedly, and the current halls date from the 1890s.
    Why it's famous
    The Goeido is one of the largest wooden structures in the world, and the temple is free to enter, which very few of Kyoto's major sites are.
    Did you know
    When ordinary ropes kept snapping under the weight of the timber during the nineteenth-century rebuild, female believers cut and donated their hair to be plaited into hawsers. Several are still on display.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  6. 🚗drive· 9 min· 1.9 km↗ Directions
  7. 04

    Honke Daiichi-Asahi

    11:45 · 60m
    Old-school Kyoto ramen a minute from the station, soy-based and heavy on spring onion and chashu. The queue is normal and moves fast, usually under twenty minutes. Order the standard bowl rather than anything special. Open very long hours, which is useful if your train is odd.
    About this place

    A ramen shop by the east side of Kyoto Station, serving a dark soy-based broth loaded with spring onion and slices of pork.

    History
    The shop opened in the years after the war, when ramen stalls appeared around Japanese stations as cheap, fast food, and it has stayed on more or less the same spot since.
    Why it's famous
    It is the definitive bowl of Kyoto ramen, and the last meal for a great many people before the Shinkansen.
    Did you know
    Kyoto ramen is much richer and darker than the city's reputation for delicate cooking suggests, and the local style is credited with influencing chains that later spread nationwide.
    ↗ Open in Maps
  8. 🚶walk· 6 min· 500 m↗ Directions
  9. 05

    Kyoto Station, Shinkansen out

    13:15 · 30m
    Tokaido Shinkansen platforms are on the south side of the station, past their own ticket barrier, so allow ten minutes more than feels necessary. Buy an ekiben and a coffee upstairs before you go through, since the platform kiosks are thin. Nozomi to Tokyo takes about two and a quarter hours.
    About this place

    Kyoto's main station and its Shinkansen stop, on the Tokaido line between Osaka and Tokyo.

    History
    The Tokaido Shinkansen opened in October 1964, days before the Tokyo Olympics, as the world's first high-speed railway. The current station building, a steel and glass block with a huge atrium, opened in 1997 after a long argument about whether it belonged in Kyoto at all.
    Why it's famous
    The Tokaido line is the busiest high-speed railway in the world, and the station building remains one of the most divisive pieces of architecture in Japan.
    Did you know
    The Nozomi, the fastest service, is not covered by the ordinary JR Pass unless you pay a supplement, so pass holders are usually pointed to the Hikari instead.
    ↗ Open in Maps
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