Kyoto, Japan
temples, autumn leaves, kaiseki, tea houses
Higashiyama, Kyoto
Drizzle
Two sets of famous gates and a great many stone steps in between. Fushimi Inari goes first, while the torii above the Yotsutsuji junction still run empty, and then the day drifts north into Higashiyama for Kiyomizu-dera, boiled tofu in a garden, and matcha halfway down Sannenzaka. The evening belongs to Gion, which is at its best once the shopfronts light up and the day-trippers have gone. Nothing here is far apart on the map, but the hills add up, so treat the afternoon as a slow downhill wander rather than a list to finish.
Wear shoes you can climb in. The Inari trail is proper stone steps and the Higashiyama lanes are polished smooth, which is unforgiving in the wet. Book Okutan if you are here at a weekend. Fushimi Inari is open around the clock and costs nothing, so the early start is free, while Kiyomizu-dera charges a modest entry fee and cash is still the easy option at temple gates. Take a small bottle of water for the climb, since the vending machines thin out above the halfway point.
Fushimi Inari is two stops from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara line and the shrine approach begins across the road from Inari station. Coming back, the Keihan line from Fushimi Inari up to Kiyomizu-Gojo, followed by a fifteen minute uphill walk, beats the 206 bus, which crawls once the afternoon traffic sets in. After that everything is on foot, and mostly downhill. Sannenzaka runs into Ninenzaka and eventually into Gion, about ten minutes of walking, with Gion-Shijo station for the ride back.
Every torii on the mountain was paid for by someone, usually a business, with the donor's name and the date lacquered onto the back of the posts, so the walk up reads as one long list of thank-yous. The foxes are Inari's messengers, not gods. In Gion, the narrow private lanes off Hanamikoji are closed to visitors and photography there carries a fine, so stay on the main street. If a geiko or maiko passes, she is on her way to work, so give her the pavement and keep your camera down.
Fushimi Inari Taisha
68 Fukakusa Yabunouchicho
The head shrine of Inari, the deity of rice, sake and business, on a wooded hillside in southern Kyoto. Thousands of vermilion torii line the paths that climb Mount Inari behind it.
Vermillion Espresso Bar & Info
A small independent espresso bar near the foot of Fushimi Inari, run in the Australian and New Zealand cafe style that took hold in Kyoto over the past decade.
Kiyomizu-dera
1-294 Kiyomizu
A Buddhist temple on the Higashiyama hillside, best known for a vast wooden veranda that projects out over the slope on a lattice of pillars.
Okutan Kiyomizu
A garden restaurant below Kiyomizu-dera serving yudofu, the Kyoto set meal of tofu simmered in a pot of hot water with sides of sesame, vegetables and pickles.
Sannenzaka tea house
A tea house on Sannenzaka, the stepped stone lane of wooden shopfronts that runs down from Kiyomizu-dera towards Gion.
Gion evening stroll
Kyoto's best known geisha district, a grid of wooden machiya teahouses and restaurants between Shijo street and the Kamo River.
Gion Tanto
A long-standing okonomiyaki restaurant in Gion, cooking on a hot steel counter in the Kansai style.
Arashiyama, Kyoto
Cloudy
Arashiyama early, the city later. The bamboo path takes about twenty minutes to walk and is a completely different place before eight, and Tenryu-ji sits right against it, so the two belong together. Coffee by the Togetsukyo bridge and handmade soba fill the late morning. Kinkaku-ji is the one fixed appointment of the afternoon, quick to see and busy at any hour, and Nishiki Market takes care of the evening as a series of skewers and small paper cups rather than a sit-down meal.
Mornings by the river run colder than the city centre, so bring a layer you can shed by lunchtime. Tenryu-ji prices the garden and the temple buildings separately, and the garden alone is the cheaper, better ticket if you are short on time. Yoshimura fills up from about half eleven, so arriving early is worth more than any booking. Kinkaku-ji sells a single ticket for everyone and hands it over printed as a paper charm, which is the only souvenir you need from there.
The JR Sagano line runs from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama in roughly fifteen minutes and is the plain, cheap way west. The Randen tram from Shijo-Omiya is slower and much nicer to look at. Within Arashiyama you walk everywhere. Kinkaku-ji has no station of its own, so take the JR back east to Enmachi and pick up a short bus, or split a taxi if there are two of you and the queue at the bus stop looks grim. From Kinkaku-ji, a bus down to Shijo takes around forty minutes and drops you a street from Nishiki.
The grove is a working stand of moso bamboo, tended and cut, which is why the carved initials people leave in the stems cause such offence. Nishiki has spent years asking visitors to stop eating while walking, and most stalls now keep a spot beside the counter where you can stand and finish what you have bought. Kinkaku-ji is a functioning Zen temple rather than a monument, so the loop is one way and the pace is set by everyone else on the path.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
A walking path through a dense stand of moso bamboo in Sagano, on the western edge of Kyoto, between Tenryu-ji and the Okochi Sanso villa.
Tenryu-ji garden
The head temple of the Tenryu branch of Rinzai Zen, in Arashiyama, with a pond garden laid out to borrow the mountains behind it as part of the view.
% Arabica Kyoto Arashiyama
The Arashiyama branch of % Arabica, a Kyoto coffee company with a minimal white counter and a wall of glass facing the Katsura River.
Arashiyama Yoshimura
A soba restaurant beside the Katsura River in Arashiyama, milling and cutting its own buckwheat noodles, with river views from the upper floor.
Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)
A Zen temple in north west Kyoto whose three-storey pavilion, covered in gold leaf, stands at the edge of a large pond. Its formal name is Rokuon-ji.
Nishiki Market
A covered market street five blocks long, one shop deep, running parallel to Shijo in central Kyoto and known as Kyoto's kitchen.
Northern Kyoto
Cloudy
This is the walking day, and the best of it is the two kilometres of canal between Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji. Start with the sand cone and the moss garden while the light is still low, take the Philosopher's Path slowly, and let coffee and a long tofu lunch pull the middle of the day apart. Nanzen-ji has the aqueduct and the huge Sanmon gate. Eikan-do is saved for last on purpose, because late afternoon is when its maples do the thing everyone comes for.
Eikan-do runs an evening illumination during the autumn colour and charges a separate ticket for it, with a queue to match, so decide in advance whether you want the daylight version or the floodlit one rather than trying to do both. Junsei and the Pontocho restaurants both want booking, the second one firmly. Each temple takes its own entry fee, so keep coins handy. The canal path has almost nowhere to buy water once you leave Ginkaku-ji.
Ginkaku-ji is a bus job from the centre, the 5 or the 17 up to Ginkaku-ji-michi, then five minutes uphill past the souvenir stalls. Everything after that is on foot and almost flat: the path, Nanzen-ji, then Eikan-do, which is a five minute walk north of the Nanzen-ji gate. For dinner, walk or take a short taxi down to Sanjo, and Pontocho itself is a single lane between Sanjo and Shijo that you can only do on foot. Keihan Sanjo or Gion-Shijo gets you home afterwards.
The Philosopher's Path is named after Nishida Kitaro, the Kyoto University philosopher who walked it to think, and it is lined mainly with cherry trees, so the autumn colour along the canal is patchier than the guidebooks imply. Eikan-do is where to spend that appetite instead. The aqueduct at Nanzen-ji is not a folly. It was built in the 1880s to carry water from Lake Biwa into Kyoto and it still does the job, which is why the channel on top is running.
Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion)
A Zen temple at the foot of the eastern hills, properly called Jisho-ji, with a two-storey wooden pavilion, a moss garden and a garden of raked white sand.
Philosopher's Path
A stone path along a narrow canal in the eastern hills, running roughly two kilometres between Ginkaku-ji and the Nanzen-ji area.
Blue Bottle Coffee Kyoto
A branch of the American roaster Blue Bottle, in a converted machiya, the traditional Kyoto wooden townhouse, near Nanzen-ji.
Junsei
A yudofu restaurant in the grounds beside Nanzen-ji, serving simmered tofu courses in wooden buildings set in a garden.
Nanzen-ji aqueduct
A large Zen temple complex at the foot of the eastern hills, with a huge two-storey gate and a red brick Meiji-era aqueduct running straight through the grounds.
Eikan-do Zenrin-ji
A Buddhist temple in the eastern hills, formally Zenrin-ji, built up a wooded slope with halls linked by covered wooden walkways.
Pontocho kaiseki dinner
Pontocho is a narrow pedestrian lane running between Shijo and Sanjo, packed with restaurants, many of them serving kaiseki, the Kyoto multi-course meal built around the season.
Nara
Partly cloudy
Nara is compact in a way Kyoto is not. Almost everything worth seeing sits inside one park you can cross on foot, and the deer wander through all of it. Kofuku-ji first, since it is closest to the station, then Todai-ji for the Great Buddha, lunch once the middle of the day has thinned out, and the climb up through the woods to Kasuga Taisha in the afternoon. Naramachi, the old merchant quarter, is where the day winds down before the train back.
Keep food in a zipped bag. The deer are wild animals, they are quick, and they will go through a paper carrier without hesitation. Buy the shika-senbei crackers only from the licensed sellers, hold them low, and hand them over fast. Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha each charge separately and the inner areas cost more than the grounds. If you plan on the Kintetsu limited express, the reserved seat is an extra charge on top of the ordinary fare, bought at the same window.
Two lines run from Kyoto. The Kintetsu limited express takes about thirty five minutes and drops you at Kintetsu Nara, a five minute walk from the park. The JR rapid takes a little longer, is covered by a JR Pass, and leaves you at JR Nara, about fifteen minutes further out. Inside Nara you walk: Kofuku-ji to Todai-ji is fifteen minutes, Todai-ji to Kasuga Taisha another twenty through the deer park, and Naramachi is south of the station, a flat ten minutes from either.
The deer are protected as a national natural monument and have been treated as messengers of the Kasuga gods for well over a thousand years, which is why they behave as though the park is theirs. The bowing is learned, not sacred: they worked out that it gets them fed. Nara was the capital before Kyoto was, for most of the eighth century, and the scale of Todai-ji is what an imperial capital's temple budget looked like. Bring cash, since the smaller places in Naramachi still prefer it.
Kyoto Station → Nara
The morning rail run from Kyoto Station down to Nara, served by two competing operators with different stations at the far end.
Kofuku-ji
A Buddhist temple on the hill above Sarusawa Pond in central Nara, with a five-storey pagoda, an octagonal hall and a museum of early Buddhist sculpture.
Todai-ji Great Buddha
A vast Buddhist temple in Nara whose main hall houses a fifteen metre seated bronze Buddha, the Daibutsu.
Nara deer park
A large public park in central Nara, wooded and open, with around a thousand wild sika deer moving freely between the temples and shrines inside it.
Shizuka kamameshi
A long-established kamameshi restaurant in Nara, serving rice steamed to order in small cast iron pots with toppings laid over the top.
Kasuga Taisha
A vermilion Shinto shrine at the foot of a sacred forested hill in Nara, approached through a long avenue of moss-covered stone lanterns.
Hiraso Naramachi
A kakinoha-zushi shop and restaurant in Naramachi, the old merchant quarter of low wooden houses south of the main temples.
Central Kyoto
Cloudy
A short, deliberately loose morning built around the station. Coffee first, at a roaster the size of a garden shed, then To-ji, which is ten minutes from Kyoto Station and quiet at opening in a way it never is later. Higashi Hongan-ji fills the gap before lunch without asking anything of you, and the ramen shop by the station is the last real meal. Everything is close enough that a slow start costs you nothing.
Check your Shinkansen seat the night before, because the platforms at Kyoto get busy and the ticket machines have a queue at midday. If you are travelling on a JR Pass, the Nozomi is not included in the ordinary pass unless you pay the supplement, so the Hikari is the straightforward choice. Leave a bag with the station lockers or the hotel and travel the morning light. To-ji charges for the pagoda grounds and the halls, and the pagoda interior only opens on certain dates.
Weekenders is in the centre, north of Shijo, and reaching it means the Karasuma subway to Shijo and a short walk into a car park courtyard. From there the subway back to Kyoto Station takes four minutes. To-ji is a fifteen minute walk south west of the station, or one stop on the Kintetsu line to Toji station. Higashi Hongan-ji is straight up Karasuma from the station, ten minutes on foot, and the ramen shop is on the east side of the station block, so the last leg is a five minute walk to the barrier.
To-ji holds a big flea market on the twenty first of every month, in memory of Kobo Daishi, and if your last day lands on it, the temple grounds fill with antiques, old kimono and food stalls from early morning. Higashi Hongan-ji is worth stepping inside for the ropes on display, plaited from human hair donated by female believers when the ropes of the time kept snapping under the weight of the timber. Kyoto ramen is darker and heavier than the city's reputation suggests, and that contradiction is the point.
Weekenders Coffee Tominokoji
A small specialty coffee roaster in central Kyoto, in a converted wooden building behind a car park a short walk from Nishiki Market.
To-ji pagoda
A temple south of Kyoto Station whose five-storey pagoda, at about 55 metres, is the tallest wooden pagoda in Japan.
Higashi Hongan-ji
The head temple of the Otani branch of Jodo Shinshu Buddhism, a short walk north of Kyoto Station, with two enormous wooden halls.
Honke Daiichi-Asahi
A ramen shop by the east side of Kyoto Station, serving a dark soy-based broth loaded with spring onion and slices of pork.
Kyoto Station, Shinkansen out
Kyoto's main station and its Shinkansen stop, on the Tokaido line between Osaka and Tokyo.
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